What are the best five things about Bucharest someone asked and found he could only think of four. He included decent primary schools (sounds like damning with faint praise but then I am not a father). My list? The people, the decrepit late nineteenth century Franco-Oriental streets, the humanity of Romanian life, the sense that the modern world is still a fair way off in the distance, the energy. But I could have gone on with many more examples. The folk religion, the jokes, the parties, the second hand booksellers, the wartime egalitarianism (people who sleep rough sit watching open air film shows without exciting the disdain that their counterparts would do in Western Europe), the gypsies, manele, the old-fashioned terraces where one can get a bottle of wine and a Bulgarian salad for a song, the serendipity, the way that every day is completely different from the day before (unless you work in a big foreign firm), the daily problems which you come to enjoy (or else go mad), the courtesy and great kindness that counterbalances the gracelessness and mercilessness. Food well...yes....up to a point. The Antim monastery which I visit every 5 or 6 years. The Stavropoleos Church. A number of the churches. Most of all the broken run-down streets. Until recently the slummy Old Town now drowning in a sea of wine-bars. Cismigiu. The beauty and femininity of the women which is unparalleled.
I'd agree with you. My top 5 things being 1) the warmth of people; 2) the energy; 3) what's left of Micul Paris in areas such as Dorobanti, Cotroceni etc giving to marvellous walks with history oozing from every paving stone and brick for those that care enough to open their eyes and SEE what's there; 4) the parks (Icoanei, Cismigiu, Herastrau...); 5) the patrimony - again, what's left of it: Ateneul Palas, Capsa, Radu Voda, the Art Museum, the memorial houses (those that still remain), Biserica Bucur, and many many more. I'd also add the classical music concerts, the jazz, the places hidden away that you'd only know were there if you took the time to walk, the bookstores (lovely new one Kyralina on str G Enescu), the villas that still stand and have (some of them) been lovingly restored even if they have turned into restaurants and cafés - at least they are haven't been demolished... voilà...
ReplyDeleteSarah
One of the best things about Bucharest.... the road heading out of the city.
ReplyDeleteThere's the famous urban legend about Iliescu whom was asked by a member of the press about what a visitor should see in Bucharest and Iliescu replied, "Brasov." The correspondent clarified and said he meant in Bucharest. And Iliescu responded something akin to, "I understood. Brasov."
ReplyDeleteBarry
Anyone who thinks the best thing about BUcharest is the way out simply hasn't taken the time to get to know it or understand it. Sad... (and entirely their loss)
ReplyDeleteSarah
Oh, and I forgot one VERY important one - the sense of humour! There is SO much humour in Bucharest and it's so endearing :)
ReplyDeleteSarah again
Sarah I could not agree more! Of course I love Romania in general but really what can one do unless one is in a city? I am conscious always that Bucharest is an artificial creation a bit like Romania herself assembled out of the late nineteenth century box of tricks - constitution modelled on Belgium's, national poet, national heroes etc - but Tel Aviv and New York and the American cities are new too - being newish does not mean a city does not have character and Bucharest makes up for being mostly no more than 130 years old by feeling half as old as time
ReplyDeleteI would add the unforgettable smell of linden in the early days of summer during a late night walk around Amzei area, the always surprising teashops around Gradina Icoanei, the welcoming terrace of Gradina Verona, where you can retreat for hours and hours without ever getting bored, the sound of carol singers with their “plugusor” on the streets around Christmas (depending on where you live, of course), the white blanket of snow over the streets on a winter’s day, covering up all the dirt and sadness of the city, the gypsy women selling flowers at every street corner, the strange combination of kitsch and art displayed on the streets of 1st of March; it’s ironic how you learn to appreciate a place only after you are no longer there, just as with everything else in life I guess.
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ReplyDeleteJulie you write very beautifully. When were you here? I can say I appreciated Bucharest very much form my first day living here or rather from 24 hours that I spent here in September 1990.
ReplyDeleteI think there is a specific ability for seeing the hidden beauty in things, in order to appreciate a city like Bucharest. As for me, I spent there the first 30 years of my life, for me it's rather the melancholy of my youth; however, I get very much inspired by your blog, your write the way I always wanted but never managed to...
ReplyDeleteThank you very much. I am writing a book about Bucharest. Your words are encouraging.
ReplyDeleteWhen shall we expect the book ?!
ReplyDeleteWhen should we expect the book ?!
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