Saturday, 9 August 2025

My tour of the Banat reaches Subotica

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I love Subotica/Szobodka. It's just as I remember it. The hot summer air seems solid with a Spanish lethargy. The dark streets where the trees completely shut out the sun and sky. It makes Hungarianness seem weird and tropical, quite unlike other (ex-) Hungarian towns. I came here first at the recommendation. of a very sinister but very well travelled American debauchee who lived in Budapest in the 1980s and owned a sado-masochistic nightclub in Vienna. He correctly predicted that I wouldn't like Belgrade. This is my fourth visit, all in August in the upper 90s.

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