I went to Aegina for the orthodox Easter more or less by mistake, intending to revisit my beloved Hydra yet again , but it's a happy mistake. Aegina isn't upmarket. It's in its shirt sleeves and relaxing, very beautiful and no steep climbing. I visited the archaeological museum, not a good one but topical to see the origins of Western civilisation just as it is falling apart.
Aegina has 4 claims to fame: it was Achilles' kingdom; Athens' naval rival; the first capital of Greece and the closest island to Athens. When I first visited it I thought it a bit tacky but it isn't, nor even too touristy. It's unpretentious.
That is the temple of the nymph Aphaiea, where my friend Toby once proposed mariage.
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