I recommend E.F. Knight's Albania: A Narrative of Recent Travel (1880)

The book is here and for free.

E.F. Knight and friends were travelling in the aftermath of the Bulgarian Atrocities, committed by Muslims against Balkan Christians, which had led to the Russo-Turkish War of 1877, Mr Gladstone's Midlothian campaign and almost to a rerun of the Crimean War between Britain and Russia. In the London music halls, the words of the great hit song of 1877, sung by The Great MacDermott, went:

'We don't want to fight,

'But by jingo if we do,

'We've got the ships,

'We've got the men,

'We've got the money too.'

Here on YouTube is an ancient recording of the Great MacDermott singing it in a very thin voice.

In this valley are Ipek [Peja], Jakova [Gjakova], and Priserin [Prizren], three of the most interesting cities of Albania.... But the population of these towns is ferociously fanatical. Surrounded as they are by Christians, knowing that the day is not far off when the rising ambitions and energies of the oppressed race will drive them from their homes eastwards and southwards, the Mohammedans here hate the Christians with a hatred more intense than even the followers of this fanatical creed entertain in other parts.

These towns are in northern and eastern Kosovo. The newly independent Kingdom of Serbia, then as now, considered Kosovo her ancestral homeland. The Christians in those regions were Serbs and the Muslims were mostly Albanians. To what extent the conflict was religious, to what extent ethnic, is arguable, but I am sure religion was a very important motivation.

This reminds me of a passage, quoted by Mark Marzower's brilliant little essay The Balkans, which i have read three times and cannot recommend highly enough. A Bulgarian nationalist asked village boys living near Ohrid, in what is now Macedonia, who built the local fortress. In fact it was built by a Bulgarian Tsar. 

The answer was significant.

"The Free Men." 

"And who were they?" 

"Our grandfathers." 

"Yes, but were they Serbs or Bulgarians or Greeks or Turks?" 

"They weren't Turks, they were Christians." 

And this seemed to be about the measure of their knowledge.

Christians of course committed their atrocities too, as we now take for granted. To think otherwise would be a thought crime. In the war of 1877 the Serbs had ethnically cleansed Turks and Albanians and many of the refugees had ended up in Kosovo.

At one point Knight is advised by a diplomat to go back to Montenegro to witness the outbreak of war between Montenegro and Turkey. He does goes back to Podgorica but the war is inconveniently delayed.

As every schoolboy used to know, Mr. Gladstone, whom Queen Victoria thought a half-mad old man, declared to a crowd in the Midlothian campaign that he wanted to get rid of the Turks from Europe 

bag and baggage. 

He meant, I assume, Muslims rather than Turks, but am I right? Englishmen in his day tended to think all Balkan Christians were Greeks and all Muslims Turks. In any case, Gladstone was arguing for ethnic cleansing. Disraeli, who had travelled around Albania as a young man, knew much better and was pro-Turk because the Sublime Porte was the legitimate ruler of his domains. Disraeli was not a classicist like Gladstone and was possibly a less sincere Christian. 

Odd how what is liberal in one age becomes illiberal later. But this happens a lot.

Disraeli's views on ethnic cleansing were expressed with his customary feline playfulness. In his account of his Albanian journey he spoke of the pleasure 

of being made much of by a man who is daily decapitating half the country.

when he was the guest of Ali Pashain the 1830s.

Funny, almost Wildean, but very unpleasant. Very unpleasant indeed.